Saru's Song

This is my friend Saru. She is one of the top guides at Three Sisters. Saru is a warrior of a woman in all senses of the word. She also has a beautiful voice and likes to sing traditional Nepali songs. Click above to hear her. 

p.s. I looked at her cell phone today. Had me listed. "Sarah Didi." Means big sister. No greater honor. 

Home Away from Home

Today the whole country of Nepal is on strike. I was supposed to travel by Jeep and foot to a real remote and area called Sicles. Guess they have a women's movement happening in this super traditional Gurung village - microloans, daycare, women-run unions, the whole bit. But, when strikes happen, no vehicles are allowed on the road. Word on the streets has it that the strike is because its the birthday of a government official that the folks don't like - so they want to spoil it. Logical? No. But Nepal does as Nepal damn well pleases. Decided to take the time to update this baby...

Spent the past week hanging in Pokhara - a beautifully laid-back town tucked away in the foothills of the Himalayas. Lovely place to rest my battered feet, but the real sauce has been spending every day with my Nepali guide friends and their families. I have had an invitation to lunch and/or dinner every day. Becoming quick, caring friends is the Nepali way. The gals can't understand why I am so blown away by their immediate closeness. My buddy Saru even pantsed (flagged) me this morning in front of a bunch of European vacationers. Yeah, it's like that. 

Come see Pokhara...

The Maoists Are Coming

Prior to coming to Nepal, I learned about the volatile political situation here. The U.S. State Department warns against even visiting. Quick briefing before the real story: In 1996, Maoists (Communists) waged a "People's War" against the Hindu monarchy. Many young people in Nepal are Maoists and would tell you that the insurgency is truly about giving rights to members of lower castes, holding the government accountable for the overall well being of the populace, fighting corruption, etc. I tend to believe this. Even though Maoists have gained sizable political influence in the government, they are still basically using backwoods terrorist tactics to assert their power. The Kathmandu Post reported a house being damaged by home-made explosive and a rape of a 20-year old woman just yesterday.

Maoist rebels are most active in the hills. However, the Annapurna Sanctuary trek was reported to be basically safe, with the possible exception of one Gurung village - Ghandruk. I read this news, while...in Ghandruk.

After dinner one night, I was needing a little space from the group (two weeks is a long time to spend every waking moment with a group after solo traveling for 3 months). Put on my headlamp and stroll the cobblestone mule paths around Ghandruk. Moon is peeking from behind clouds. Smell of home-cooked food fills the air. Families tucked tightly in their warm cottages. Suddenly the serenity is disturbed by a megaphone barking something seemingly scripted in Nepali, that I cannot understand. Odd. Figure it is coming from the small village across the very deep gorge/valley.

I sit down on a stone wall and dangle my feet into the valley below. Ten minutes later, the echoing megaphone fills the valley again - this time the source is much closer. I look in a nearby window to see if I can gauge the reaction of the farmers. They seem unfazed. I follow their lead and continue enjoying my peaceful evening thoughts.

Uh oh. Footsteps. Heavy, booted, man footsteps in a land of mostly flip flops. Then massive moonshadows of a band of people. They came over the ridge so quickly that I didn't have time to move. A group of men, one with the megaphone, filled the path around me and start announcing their presence loudly to the valley. Frozen with fear. Do I make a run for it and risk being chased? Do I stay still and hope that the Maoist rebels truly don't want to mess with trekkers?

Not one to sit idly and take a beating, I decide to get up. Move briskly and confidently, without running, towards the teahouse. Leave headlamp off. Heart is pounding. I don't dare look back.

I make it into the teahouse breathless, but safe. Shaken to my instinctual core.

The next morning, I ask Aman, one of the porters, if he heard the megaphone and what the men were saying. His reply?

"Everyone could hear it. That was an announcement for free dental cleanings for villagers in the valley."

Of course, it was.

Words Aren't Enough

There will never be a combination of words to use that would do justice to this trek. Far better to show you what it felt like. Each link leads to a different photo gallery...

Happiness is in the Journey

Guides: Toughest Women on Earth

Annapurna Base Camp

Nepali Life

Awe

Annapurna. A sanctuary in every sense. Twelve of the richest days of my life spent walking in the mighty Himalayas with Nepali women whose spirits were bigger than the peaks. Getting reacquainted with electricity and motorized vehicles today. Stories and a few photo albums to come soon.

Sending the love. 

Annapurna with the Sisters

I am setting out for a two week trek in Nepal tomorrow with Three Sisters Trekking -- the only women owned, guided and portered outfitter in the Everest region. This mountain gal couldn't BE more excited to get a feel for the Himalayas -- to spend days walking in her folds and getting a feel for the biggest hills in the world. I'll be doing the Annapurna Sanctuary trek...through rhododendron forests, hot springs and up to the base camp of the big beauty. 

Heads up that I'll be away from blogging, email, Facebook and all the online connectivity jazz through March 29th. Will be sure to share the adventure when I return. 

Yeeeee haw and yippppeeee!

Life at Kruger

Twelve hour layover in Delhi was the perfect opportunity to compile some footage from this South African wonderland. This was shot at Kruger National Park in northeast South Africa back in January. Feels like ages ago...

The music is by Agape Children's Choir, from the movie "We Are Together" - brilliant story.