Jambo from Nungwi

Amazing remote spot at the tip of the island. Spent three days here. Got some food poisoning last night and don't have the energy for captions today. Went on a snorkeling trip all day yesterday...saw the most abundant marine life imaginable. A rainbow of a reef. In this video, taken when my German friend, Ila, snatched my camera and started filming...you can see it...and meet the unrefrigerated fish that is wrecking havoc on my belly. They cooked it right there on the boat with lime, garlic and ginger. That seemed so lovely yesterday....

Here are some pictures, too.

p.s. video is a no-go using this connection. Maybe i'll post it when I get a faster one...

Stone Town Sunrise

Took to the streets of Stone Town early this morning. I love sunrise o'clock. The motions of a city to prepare for the day. The softness of the light. The smooth and gentle quality of faces that just woke up - carrying over some of the peace of sleep into the day.

Stone Town is the main city in Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania. It's otherworldly. Over hundreds of years, people have used this island as a strategic port - most notably for slave and spice trade. The city is an ancient labyrinth of small cobblestone streets and buildings made of stone, built to last. The most dramatic display of cultural fusion humankind has ever produced. Food, architecture, people carrying stories of arabic, african, european and indian making.

The rain started to come down while I was roaming around this morning. I ducked into the front stoop of a school and listened to the brilliant sounds of kids singing hymns. A guy joined me and we chatted a bit. Before I left he said, "Sarah, you have the smile of an angel, and you walk strong like a man. This is lucky."
Shaking head.
Smiling.

Have a look for yourself

Supertubes and super thieves

Past four days in Jeffrey's Bay -- home of Supertubes, one of the most famous surf breaks in the world. Lovely here, but torrent winds have made the waves a bit messy and unsurfable. Virtually no one in the water. Managed to surf the first day. Lots of paddling around on my belly...with a little tap dance session on the board. No offers to go pro just yet....

Woke up at sunrise to shoot some photos of this very chill, very beautiful, windy wonderland.

Have stayed a little longer than planned, as my credit card number was "cloned" when I was up north and has been used by someone to take jusssst about half of my savings out of my account. Burly, loving thanks to Mom for bailing me out. Toes crossed that Wells Fargo recognizes that no good tourist would spend thousands of dollars at Eckharts Drug Store.

Bump in the road. Keeping the spirits high. Off to Jo'berg tomorrow than up out of South Africa and on to Tanzania.

Obamafied

Is there anything else to be talking about today? I mean, really. The whole world is celebrating. I used to travel around to places and be tentative about telling folks I was an American. I even considered sewing a Canadian flag patch on my backpack. Traveling feels very different now. Obama makes it different.

Mand and Jeff, thank you for this t-shirt. Its one of only 5 that I brought with me. It has been the source of 2 free drinks and handful of great conversations so far on this trip. Walking down the street in Capetown, a parking attendant is giving me the up and down looks. Ready to briskly walk past with a steel jaw. "Hey Mama," he says. "Here we go," i think. "I love OH BA Ma, too." Thumbs up exchanged.

Douglas, from the vineyard, watched the U.S. election night in the capital city of Zimbabwe. [Sidebar: Zimbabwe is ruled by a tyrannical man who has been in power for 27 years and is basically holding the people of the country captive.] Anyhow, Douglas had been glued to the whole campaign from start to finish. When it was clear that Obama had won, he said he sat in his chair and cried for an hour. He believes Obama can help free the people of Zimbabwe.

Big day, America. Big day. So proud. Obama shirt is a little stinky, but I'm wearing it anyway....

Thank You, Capetown

Thank you for....
Calling me sista.
Hearty claps overhead when our team scored during a rowdy game of pickup soccer.

Thank you for...
Rock-crashing tides, bluebird skies and natural beauty that doesn't seem to match your urban style.
Your inspiration as you try to slip beyond battered days of apartheid and walking these streets as one.
Deep, strong espresso

Thank you for...
Dear accented grannies on seaside walks.
The glue stick.
Gay boys in D&G sunglasses holding hands in Waterkant.

Thank you for black women playing golf. In capris. With their daughters.
For wrapping your open, South African arms around me just when I needed it.
You truly were my weekend.

Hope

9:00: Breakfast at a mosaic-tiled, seaside cafe in Kalk Bay. Sunday-paced people. Freshly baked bread. Dogs welcome. Leaf drawn perfectly in the top of my oh-so-smooth latte.

11:00: Dodge ostriches and try to keep my dreamy eyes on the road en route to the Cape of Good Hope, the edge of the African continent. Moon is out at noon. Sea is boiling like I've never seen before. Wind blows my visor off my head. Three times. Sun exploding in the sky. Feels like Mother Nature has let down her curly hair, kicked up her strong feet and started a wild game of truth or dare with the Greek Gods here.

1:00: Back to Kalk Bay to watch fisherman bring in their catch. The woman in the picture is selling Angel Fish. She believed, that if I double bagged it, I could slip one into my backpack without it stinking up my clothes. She was so charming, I almost agreed.

4:00: Visit Schellenbosh in the winelands. Vineyards close early on Sundays. Made quick friends with Antoinette, who let me come in to the tasting room to hang with she and her friend, Douglas. He knows more about Barack Obama than you or I will ever know. I am not exaggerating. Antoinette gives us a secret, no-lights-on tour of the fermenters. Sneak tastes of the grapes on the vines on my way down the driveway.

6:00: Ipod turned up. Michael Franti singing in my ears. Arm out window of car. Alive and quite well today.

Felt like this.

Wide Eyed and Drop Jawed

Kruger National Park was unbelievable. I camped under the biggest sky. Spent the day driving amidst Mother Nature's absolute best. Here is a photo album. It's on facebook, but anyone can view it (supposedly). I'll put together a little video too. 

Two funny business signs I saw on my drive back from the park:

1. "Faith Hair salon"

2. "New Second Hand Appliances"

Thirty minutes to get the rental car back and hop back on the Greyhound. Yes, it's actually a Greyhound. Next stop: Capetown!

JoBurg

30 hours of travel.
One middle seat.
A head full of thoughts about leaving the loving womb of my life for the sake of this adventure.

Hardly the makings for a Mastercard commercial.

Despite the travel aches, I am safe in Johannesburg and had a suprisingly great evening with a few new friends. Dougie and his brother Wellington are both from Zimbabwe. Dougie does late night pickups for the hostel that I am calling home for 48 hours. We talked Barack Obama, Zimbabwe politics and Chaka Demus' musical talents on the drive from the airport and quickly recognized our mutual appreciation for good conversation. Went to a sweet little bar where dance remixes of Tracy Chapman complimented a meal of Pap and chicken. [Pap is like mashed potatoes, made out of maize. A staple in S.A.] I felt a little silly for not knowing the right way to eat with my hands...but Dougie was far more interested in talking poetry slams than concerning himself with my fumbles.

I know this trip is going to be more about the people than the places. Great start. Thanks, Dougie.

Spent the day touring around Jo'burg. Hard to judge a city by its crime rate, but this place is hardly a replacement for a womb. The folks have been nice. The graffiti is EPIC and the history is rich. However, when the hostel owner gave me tips on how not to get robbed, I had this image of myself as a plump pork chop tiptoeing through a hungry lion cage.

Speaking of which....Tomorrow, it's the Greyhound bus for six hours to Nelspruit...where I'll rent a car and head to Kruger National Park for a safari. I'm camping out of range for the next three days at Lower Sabie - where the big five are commonly seen. Hoping to fall asleep to bright stars and howling sounds of the savannah -- in the distance.

So much love.

On the brink...

The trip starts January 10th. I'll be blogging once this all gets underway. C'mon back to see videos, photos and wordy accounts of the world i see.