The Maoists Are Coming

Prior to coming to Nepal, I learned about the volatile political situation here. The U.S. State Department warns against even visiting. Quick briefing before the real story: In 1996, Maoists (Communists) waged a "People's War" against the Hindu monarchy. Many young people in Nepal are Maoists and would tell you that the insurgency is truly about giving rights to members of lower castes, holding the government accountable for the overall well being of the populace, fighting corruption, etc. I tend to believe this. Even though Maoists have gained sizable political influence in the government, they are still basically using backwoods terrorist tactics to assert their power. The Kathmandu Post reported a house being damaged by home-made explosive and a rape of a 20-year old woman just yesterday.

Maoist rebels are most active in the hills. However, the Annapurna Sanctuary trek was reported to be basically safe, with the possible exception of one Gurung village - Ghandruk. I read this news, while...in Ghandruk.

After dinner one night, I was needing a little space from the group (two weeks is a long time to spend every waking moment with a group after solo traveling for 3 months). Put on my headlamp and stroll the cobblestone mule paths around Ghandruk. Moon is peeking from behind clouds. Smell of home-cooked food fills the air. Families tucked tightly in their warm cottages. Suddenly the serenity is disturbed by a megaphone barking something seemingly scripted in Nepali, that I cannot understand. Odd. Figure it is coming from the small village across the very deep gorge/valley.

I sit down on a stone wall and dangle my feet into the valley below. Ten minutes later, the echoing megaphone fills the valley again - this time the source is much closer. I look in a nearby window to see if I can gauge the reaction of the farmers. They seem unfazed. I follow their lead and continue enjoying my peaceful evening thoughts.

Uh oh. Footsteps. Heavy, booted, man footsteps in a land of mostly flip flops. Then massive moonshadows of a band of people. They came over the ridge so quickly that I didn't have time to move. A group of men, one with the megaphone, filled the path around me and start announcing their presence loudly to the valley. Frozen with fear. Do I make a run for it and risk being chased? Do I stay still and hope that the Maoist rebels truly don't want to mess with trekkers?

Not one to sit idly and take a beating, I decide to get up. Move briskly and confidently, without running, towards the teahouse. Leave headlamp off. Heart is pounding. I don't dare look back.

I make it into the teahouse breathless, but safe. Shaken to my instinctual core.

The next morning, I ask Aman, one of the porters, if he heard the megaphone and what the men were saying. His reply?

"Everyone could hear it. That was an announcement for free dental cleanings for villagers in the valley."

Of course, it was.